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One Day Without Motion
Waking up in Santiago feels pretty darn good. It takes a moment to realize, however, that you’re in a room by yourself and you have nowhere to walk. My body shifts into healing mode the moment I arrive. I typically feel sorer on the first day in Santiago than I do the whole trip. I…
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How to Walk 15 Miles When You Feel Like Hell
It’s raining and chilly in NYC today. This morning, I went on a walk to honor the end of my Camino in my hiking boots, raincoat, and hiking pants. I came back to a warm apartment with a fridge full of food and a cozy cup of coffee topped off with nutmeg. Life back home…
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“But I Did it My Way”
I woke up to a rainy morning in Briallos and was ready to hit the road with a renewed sense of energy despite my aching knee. A sense of great accomplishment after the 28k day and the nearing finish line provided a decent amount of adrenaline for the penultimate day of hiking. And anyway, the…
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The Longest Day
Ben and I are out of the house for the whole day–going on an adventure of our own!–but luckily, I wrote about my 10th day of hiking last year! It also happens to be one of my favorite posts. Have a wonderful Sunday, everyone! Find the post here:)
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Santiago Sneaks Up on You
The funny thing about a trip of this length is that the end feels impossibly far away until suddenly, it isn’t. I woke up on the 9th day of walking with the realization that I only had three more days to be a pilgrim. I love this identity. I may not be religious, but the…
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When the Modern Road Returns
It’s easy to look back on a life-altering trip and color the whole experience with a rosy lens. Wrapped up neatly, I was quite content most of the trip, much more so than I managed to be in 2009 or 2017. Then again, staying upbeat for 12 days is different than staying upbeat for 35.…
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The Third Time I Walked Into Spain
When I woke up in Portugal for the last time as a hiker, the aroma of brewing coffee wafted in from the common room. Someone out there is my true hero, I thought. The rest of the albergue was starting to roll out of bed and the familiar sound of backpacks being packed and teeth…
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Frida Kahlo and the Land of Deep Blue
I have a tattoo on my left arm of a poppy and the word, ultreïa. This word was first seen in a 12th-century guide about how to walk the Camino, and it is believed to mean, “Go further!” The poppy, however, has a double meaning. To start, there are poppies all over the Camino Frances…
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The Story of Ponte de Lima
I’m having a hard day today. I can’t seem to bring myself to write like I usually do, but I’m determined to stick with this project either way. The 5th day of hiking–from Fernanda’s house to the city of Ponte de Lima–was beautiful. We saw sheep, we walked through stunning landscapes, and we met a…
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The Road to Fernanda’s
Wanted to say a quick hello to all the sweet new (and not-so-new) followers of my blog. It’s meant so much to see your views, messages, likes, and follows. I haven’t been able to write for myself since March, so I deeply appreciate all of it. October 5, 2019 Once you get past the many months…